Shivaratri in Pokhara, Nepal

MARCH 10, 2013

 

One night we were leaving a restaurant and saw a big gathering in the street. There were lots of really loud explosions.  After my experience in Greece, and knowing that Pokhara was close due to a strike only days earlier, I was hesitant to investigate.  In the states, large groups of people accompanied by explosions are to be avoided.  Here?  We decided to investigate.

"Tractor left! Water buffalo right!"

As we drew closer we could see a big fire in the street and people waving canes, or something.  In East Lansing it would have been just another Saturday night.  Anywhere else it was cause to worry – but no one was.  Everyone on the street was smiling and in a good mood.

I meet some local kids (including a U of Michigan fan!) who explain the situation.  It was Maha Shivaratri.  Maha = big/the biggest; Shiva = Hindu God;  Ratri = night.  Every month the god Shiva is celebrated.  This night was the biggest of the year celebrating Shiva’s birthday.  

This and the pic below are from a bike ride we took 8 miles out of town.

Back in Kathmandu there was tons of pot smoking going on (I’m told – and believe it since you can’t walk 100 meters without getting offered weed or hash).  Here in Pokhara they were taking 6 foot lengths of sugar cane, heating them in the coals of the fire, then swinging and smashing them on the ground.  The heated sugar water in the cane violently explodes on impact leaving the sweet smell of carmalized sugar in the air.  It was so bizarre.  I’m totally brining loads of cane to the next bon fire party I go to in the states.